The last sunset of 2012
and the first waves of 2013
Although a combination of exercise, lack of sleep and too much sun lead to more of this
than this!
As you can see I still have a long way to go when it comes to surfing, although I felt a lot more comfortable on the board and was starting to try to get to my feet. It's different to the minimals that I used to ride - because the board is so short your feet are in the water and there's nothing to brace against when you get up, so it's all down to the athleticism of the 'pop'. And fairly obviously I wasn't feeling very athletic.
I also had a valuable learning experience after being caught in a nasty rip that wasn't there in the morning. I suddenly noticed that although I was facing the beach and waves were breaking around me, what looked like a stream of water was flowing towards me and I was getting carried backwards out to sea. My swimming stamina & ability isn't great, but luckily I managed to paddle onto the next wave and ride in to the shore. And I mean right in to shore, staying on the board until it beached and sand washed up my shorts. Lesson learnt, check out the ocean and be aware.
It could have been worse. Bondi Beach in the East of Sydney is a popular New Years Day hangout and the papers reported that they had to evacuate the water for 20 minutes after a 2m great white shark was spotted moseying around the headland. Ah, nothing like a relaxing day on the beach...
I also had a valuable learning experience after being caught in a nasty rip that wasn't there in the morning. I suddenly noticed that although I was facing the beach and waves were breaking around me, what looked like a stream of water was flowing towards me and I was getting carried backwards out to sea. My swimming stamina & ability isn't great, but luckily I managed to paddle onto the next wave and ride in to the shore. And I mean right in to shore, staying on the board until it beached and sand washed up my shorts. Lesson learnt, check out the ocean and be aware.
It could have been worse. Bondi Beach in the East of Sydney is a popular New Years Day hangout and the papers reported that they had to evacuate the water for 20 minutes after a 2m great white shark was spotted moseying around the headland. Ah, nothing like a relaxing day on the beach...
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