Cyclone Evan has recently been wreaking havoc on Fiji & Samoa and the resulting swell has now reached Queensland. So we thought it was time to get back to the beach and catch some waves...
Look away now all my old surfer mates
It's still hard work though, and after a few hours of being beaten up by the ocean some fresh mango goes down a treat
Along with a leisurely coffee in the carpark. A little different to shiveringly gulping down a hot drink in the carpark at Woolacombe in a desperate attempt to avoid hypothermia
although the sunshine does take a toll - I was a bit careless with the suncream, and as Liz puts it "I've been Rhonda'd"
A combination of onshore winds and heavy waves quickly persuaded my from trying to get out back - when you have head high cascades of white water that knock you off your feet, you don't want to tangle with a closeout on a green wave. But even the whitewater had enough push to give me a decent ride. I may be on a bodyboard, it's not 6' & glassy out there and I'm only catching whitewater but I'm still having an awesome time.
It's still hard work though, and after a few hours of being beaten up by the ocean some fresh mango goes down a treat
When can we go again? :)
Like a sunrise!
ReplyDeleteI was going to say,"kiss me Ketut", but I don't think our relationship is there yet! :-)
Gordy